Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Owner Trip/Tender Delivery



We hosted the owner, his wife and his guests for two weeks in the Greek isles and Kusadasi Turkey. After a couple days in Rhodes, the yacht left for Kusadasi, Turkey. The guests toured Ephesis, and the next day I flew back to Athens while the yacht left for Patmos. I was on a mission to unpack the new tender that had been shipped there to Athens from New Zealand where it was built. I was to get the new boat splashed in the water, and deliver it to the yacht's position in Santorini, about 150 miles away.
The first complication was customs in Turkey. I had been stamped out of the country along with the rest of the crew the night prior to my leaving for the airport, because at that time there was no plan to have me fly from there. Luckily the agent whom I was picked up by that morning had connections with the customs and immigration officials and all was put correct by simply making a quick visit to their office. The nature of my trip was interesting, I was arriving as a tourist on vacation and there to visit my "uncle Mike". Mike is the agent in Athens who we have great faith in; he has been extremely helpful to the yacht's crew. As this was the situation, I did not bring any crew clothing or equipment. Everything that I needed to outfit this new boat would be purchased in Athens.
My next complication was at security in the Izmir airport, about an hours drive from Kusadasi, Turkey. I had packed in a hurry the previous night at a late hour since the whole arrangement was last minute. Having packed my normal size toiletries meant that many were over the 3 or 4 oz travel size limit for carry on. It turns out I also had packed my Spyderco folding knife; as a rule I don't like being on a boat without a good knife. I made it through the first x-ray at the airports entrance before I even remembered that I had the knife in my bag. Determined to get through security with it, I brainstormed and quickly decided to put the knife in-between my phone chargers and wrapped it with my headlamp to help disguise it in the x-ray machine. I wasn't sure this would work, but I had scoped who was watching the x-ray monitor in the security lane that I was going to use. She looked very passive, and it may have been that she wasn't paying any attention at all. I have once passed a smaller knife through security x-ray in the basket underneath my wallet, this gave me some optimism that I would arrive Athens with my favorite knife.
They busted me.... on the toiletries though, wanting to take four bottles from my bag; sunscreen, toothpaste, shampoo, and shaving gel. In an effort to save these, I hurried back to the information counter, the security guys held my passport at the desk so I would not have to go through again. The baggage service had already closed, so I had no choice but to go through with carry-on. They did take those four items and actually would not let me board until I personally tossed them in the "liquids" trash can. I got to my window seat with my knife in my bag, but lucky for the other passengers, the ever-vigilant security force had saved the jet from my shaving gel.
The flight was quick, but I still had a difficult time keeping my eyes open. A cab was waiting at the baggage claim for me, and whisked me to the marina. The new tender was still in the trailer, another shipping agent there explained to me that they were waiting for another truck to arrive. The way they got the boat out of the container was interesting. They backed a flat-bed truck up to the door of the trailer, lifted the front of the boats cradle, and dragged it out and onto the flat bed. Then, rigging to the boat itself, lifted it up and drove the trailer out from underneath the tender. The crane placed the boat down on the ground while the sponsons where inflated, and the agents had to run to the store for a wooden bung to replace the threaded transom plug that was not shipped with the boat. We also put up the t-top bimini and I checked that the engines still had lubrication in them from the sea trial. I stayed in the boat while it was picked up and placed in the sea, they were in a hurry to get the crane free for another project. The fuel truck arrived and I put 300 litres of gas into the tank to fill it.
Now supplied with fuel, some safety equipment, and navigational tools I was ready to go for the next morning. I had an ex-pat named Gary to help me deliver the boat. He had worked on the yacht in Athens for the week when we first arrived there after the Atlantic crossing. Gary offered to sleep on his friends boat for the night, and therefore tying the new tender up next to would be looked after. The next morning we got started at 0710, using the charts and some waypoints I had entered into the handheld GPS. The first hour was nice smooth water, and the boat was running perfectly. The next hour saw the waves increase in size bit. Dodging ferry and shipping traffic and jumping some of there wakes ;i was making good time. Gary steered a bit while I did some inspections of the boat, took some photos, and did some navigating.
This new tender was fast, comfortable, and a blast to drive. The smooth water of the early morning was lost to wakes of ferries and cruise ships, but the deep V shape of the hull was slicing through the chop and swell. Out of the Gulf and past the Greek mainland I began threading the islands on a SouthEasterly heading for Thira. At least one fuel stop would be needed, or at least wise. The first landfall made was in Serifos for some petrol. The mooring man there was beyond wierd. He gave Gary and I the creeps. Upon entering the harbor, I was looking for somewhere to tie up to the quay. This creepy guy was yelling at me in Greek and called Gary and I Malakas, in Greek meaning f*&ing idiots. Gary went ashore and spoke to a captain whom he knew, this proved to be very helpful in getting fuel. The crazy mooring man started his act on me, touching my hands, neck, and speaking very close to my face. He pushed his walking stick down on my toes, and did his creepy thing for which I found out later he is infamous. I felt forced to hurry the fueling, pay and get out of there even though I had initially planned to stop and have a coffee break there. Gary confirmed the odd behavior of the man from speaking to his Greek captain friend. Weeks later, I would laugh at the thought of my crewmates taking a chartered sail boat
Next stop would be Ios, I anchored the boat in a nice bay in front of a great beach. Gary and I picknicked on the sandwiches and Nescafe coffees that his girlfriend had made us. I took a swim and it was a magnificent day in the Aegean. The little windlass on the tender was so easy, a caveman could do it. I took the tender around the point to Ios harbor. Tied up to the quay there and received some petrol from the truck I had arranged. I purchased some cleaning supplies from the little market; a bucket, soap, magic erasers, and two chamois. Gary and I spent a couple hours cleaning the tender, in hopes to deliver it to the next island of Santorini fairly clean, if only a little salty after the last run of about 45 minutes. Ios is a great place, and cleaning the boat there in the sunny and peaceful harbor was very enjoyable.
On approach to Santorini, I was in contact with the yacht via cell phone. Our eta's to the island were almost exactly the same as we closed on converging courses. The captain directed me to bring the tender in close to the yacht as speed so as to get some photos of the new boat in the light of the setting sun. The owner was up in the bridge as I brought the tender in fast towards the yacht and I believe he was excited to see his new boat. Once the yacht was moored, and the tender tied up to it, the guests and crew were all on the aft to welcome me and bombard me with questions about the delivery. The day was potentially my most fun work day on record. I received a lot of praise, and a personal thank you and well done from the boss was a compliment.
That evening, to all of our pleasant surprise, was the anniversary annual volcanic eruption reenactment. Using fireworks, and flares they did a great show from the caldera that lasted about 30 minutes. After that show ended, we turned our attention to Thira atop the cliff for a hotel's fireworks display.
Our trip continued on to Mykonos, a day in Paros, and on to Poros. Poros is a great little island just off the mainland Peloponnese Peninsula. Next day on to transit the Korinth Canal. Going through the three mile long ditch was exciting, and we were not expecting the sudden strong blow upon exiting the canal. I had to pick up Kim, the nurse, and carry her back inside the wheelhouse. The wind was blowing so hard and yacht now smashing through the waves on the bow that she was too scared to walk back the 30 steps by herself. The new tender in tow was now getting airborn off the wave tops as we towed her along at 18 knots into 25 knot head winds and two meter short and steep seas. Galaxidi was the destination, and the point of departure for the tour the guests took to Delphi, another famous Greek and Roman ruin location. The entire city of Delphi is sacred, a place to worship the gods, and women were taken to a nearby island to give birth as it was forbidden in the sacred city.
Back through the canal, and the trip finished in Athens. I am still here in Athens on the yacht, today its Saturday September 25th. The yacht has been here in the city since arriving and dropping guests off here on September 4th. Tomorrow we leave for Split, Croatia.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Rhodes 2

Sunday saw us return to the Southern beach of Prasonisi though with a group of only 4 this time. The wind was far stronger this day, and the beach even busier. A windsurfing championship was taking place, and the waters were full of windsurfers within an hour. I boosted some big jumps, and had some great crashes. After getting back to Rhodes town, three of us cabbed to a beach for an evening session. The wind was not cooperating, so we began walking back towards the marina. As we rounded the point beach, we noticed one kitesurfer who was struggling in the light wind. "What the heck?" Thatcher and I just decided to rig and try to ride the light wind anyhow. The guy who was out there quit, and as we started riding the wind picked up! I had a great session on my surf board, and Thatcher had a major break through session and was not kiteboarding upwind!! The photos that were with the last Blog entry were actually from this evenings ride. Amazing, the wind blows harder on this beach before sunset and increases for an hour after the sun fully goes down. Its a strange phenomenon, but in the next two weeks the yacht spent at the marina only a mile away I would take advantage of it more nights than not.
That week of non-guest work flew by. I spent most of it doing engineering projects, tinkering and fixing whatever needed tweaking. Monday was light wind, so Thatcher and I decided not to go. A silly move, as the point beach again had evening wind! Tuesday would not be lost, as I was still forcing myself to wake at 6:00 am as to keep in my rhythm. The wind was already blowing at that time in the morning, so I grabbed my gear and caught a cab to the beach. This would count as my first true morning kiting session. I made it back in time for work, and then after work went back to the beach with Thatch. A double session day! I never repeated that feat on any of the other days. I did continue to rise early and get some runs in. The first path I was taking was by the edge of town and along the beaches. It was nice, especially the part that was on a path next to the sea and away from the roads. I tired of the same routine, and so tried running inside the walled city. Immediately I was happy with the decision, and it would become my new favorite running spot. Normally the narrow streets are filled with tourists, but at 6:30 in the morning I had that ancient city to myself. I developed a great route that hugged the inside of the walls, exploring the many alleys and back streets. Next I coupled it with a run through the bottom of the dry moat. I have run in some scenic settings, but this Rodos Citadel run is in the top three.
Our chef had left the boat and returned home to Boston to spend time with his family before the next guest trip. I missed him and his cooking, and after a few meals cooked by another crew member we spent the remainder at restaurants or getting takeout. The weekend came around fast, and lucky for us it was declared another three day weekend. Matt rented a car, and we used it to go camping on the beach at Meltemi, one of the kite spots we had scoped out the previous weekend. Matt took a kiting lesson and I had a good day of riding. I picked up some beer and ice at the supermarket, then we set up camp just down the beach directly on the sand. I put up my travel hammock, Matty put up his tent. After a couple of beers, we meandered up the hill to Dionysis, the Greek restaurant. Two of my other crew members were there! They were finishing up their own meals, so Matty and I took their table. Another delicious dinner was in our belies and back at the campfire we got started on the Absinthe. Drunk and happy, we went swimming in the warm Aegean Sea and I fell asleep on the sand. If only every day could be so great.
The next day Matt and I woke up with some mean hangovers. Matt had to get back to the boat early, he was on watch that day. I got dropped off at the kiting beach and put my hammock up for some needed extra sleep. A few hours later that's where my crew found me. They made fun of me for having sand in both my ears from sleeping on the beach. Haggered, I rallied and made it up for a kiting session before a late lunch. It was strange kiteboarding in such a condition. I was not yet hungover, maybe just still a little drunk. It can only be compared to kitesufing in somebody else's body. Lunch was excellent, probably the best Greek food that I have ever had. This Sunday was a Greek holiday, and many families were out celebrating and having a late lunch. The restaurant was full of local people, always a good sign when searching for the best food away from home. A rest after lunch in my hammock, then out for another session as my crew mates packed it up and drove the 35 Km back to the yacht. I was to stay on my hammock on that very beach for the night. It was pretty noisy, all the people in the restaurant were staying up and being loud as it was a holiday. I would have had a better sleep by moving up the beach, but I couldn't be bothered to carry all my gear up there. Besides, it was convenient being close to the restaurant for take away and bottled water.
I lay in my hammock, looking up at the blanket of stars stretched across the Aegean and her many islands.

A Couple Weeks in Rhodes.






Im actually writing this entry from Kusadasi, Turkey. However, before I write about what the yacht is doing now, I want to take some time to explain what I was doing for the two weeks of silence on my BLOGGING. No, the internet was not broken. Some of you may have thought so, but I hope you weren't worried about me.
Rhodes is my favorite island in Greece, Turkey, and Italy. I would have said that Sicily was my favorite island in the Mediterranean, but it was crossed off for lack of consistent wind(Messina Straight does have wind but too much traffic and current). I have chosen Rhodes for its history and heritage, ease and friendliness towards travelers, consistent winds and beautiful beaches, and wide explorabillity factor.
Upon arriving Rhodes after dropping guests off in Mykonos, the crew was given a long weekend off. I spent most of Friday sleeping, catching up on rest after an active guest trip full of long hours. Saturday I went with four other crew members down the West coast of the island in search of a kiteboarding beach. I had done some research online and knew that there were some kiting centers and schools on the island's Western coast. Rhodes has good roads by Greek island standards and the navigation is pretty simple. First stop was at a kite center to look at conditions and ask about some equipment spares. Our real focus was on a giant sandbar that connected a rocky island to Rhodes at the Southern tip.
The main road took us through towns and villages, by the airport and many beaches, and up some mountains into a forest. Dozens of signs along the roadside denoted monasteries and ruins. The road became twisty, at times with a sheer cliff on one side. Views out to sea and inland to tall mountains and pasture lands were entertaining, and the sharper the curves got the more I wanted to tour the island on a motorcycle. The beach resorts and restaurant strips of the northern part of the island faded into olive orchards and other tree crops. The sandy beaches could have been there, but they were not visible looking out off the cliffs. A mountain town named Monolithe was unique, and honey bees are a spread throughout this area of the island. Coming down the other side of the mountain revealed a broad dune covered in some scrubby bushes and criss crossed with atv trails. Our turn came up for Prasonisi, and the van made the right that would take us across this dune and up over the hill to our destination.
Coming around the curve and down the hill was a sight, dozens of kites were in the sky, and even more windsurfers were out on the water. I say sand bar, but picture a wide and long beach with ocean on both sides. A rocky island at the end of the beach, with more roads for ATVing. We drove out on the sand, checking out the spot. Many motorhomes were parked there on the sand, as were lots of cars. It was a busy spot on a busy day, but our stomaches were growling so we turned around and headed to the restaurant at the entrance to the beach. Service was slow, typical of Greece, and I was losing interest in the cheeseburger I had ordered. I just wanted to go kiting, and it seemed the wind was dropping.
Finally lunch was over and my kite was rigged up. The wind was still light, even on the wave side of the beach were it should be heavier. I got my first session on my surf board without any foot straps, a good choice for light wind. When the wind picked up slightly I switched it out for my twin tip board. After a great day at the beach we piled back into the van and drove home with the sliding doors open. For the ride home we went up the East coast for a different view and to save some time. The East coast is much more populated, and there are a few very nice bays complete with hotels. Also on this coast are some great anchorage options, weather depending.

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Rhodes

The citadel is massive. Its tall stone walls are the predominant feature of the marina's vista. Inside the Old Town is a sticky tourist trap, and they really are trapped in this extensive, mid-evil walled city. I was here for one night prior to this weekend, and was not overly impressed with the hokey atmosphere inside the fabricated area for tourists. Average stores lined the old cobblestone streets selling overpriced knick-knacks, leather goods, fake watches, and "American" clothing to the "deer in headlights" passerby. However, upon arriving late Thursday night I have seen a more interesting and authentic Rhodes Town and Rhodes island as a whole.
The large group of guests was dropped in Mykonos on Thursday afternoon, and the yacht put the hammer down to Rhodes; a 6 hour passage at speed. Friday morning I started my weekend off by taking a long run through town, along the beach and beside the sea on Rhode's "cliff walk". The large number of other runners out at the time was surprising, but refreshing. It would not be an exaggeration to state that most of the population here in Greece is not interested in any cardio exercise. Off to see some more of the town, more later from Rhodes!