Just focus on the river, the wildlife, the forest; I told myself as I surveyed the natural scene around me. I was making an effort to ignore the large and small groups of other tourists walking about me. The effort was easy due to the sound volume that the waterfalls were producing, but it wasn't ignoring as much as allowing them to move by me without acknowledgement. The allowances I mainly made to this theory were only to share the small viewpoints in various lookouts where there wasn't room enough for many viewers at a time. My ventures for the day were aimed at getting someplace at the very least partially wild. I was being patient about the fact that this intensely captivating geographical phenomenon was packed, even at the end of the "season".
Lack of information is what creates a good 90% of the label "adventure" as I know them. In 2010 nearly everything has been done, aside from so much ocean unexplored, so nearly every discovery for me is only new because I hadn't previously read or heard about what other people had done. I had a tourist map of the park, and some general directions and distances from the cab driver whom delivered me the 14 Km from the shipyard that morning. He did more than his part of simply driving the cab, a trait I have been noticing in about 1 out of 7 or so cab drivers in Europe as a whole. My driver did some interpreting, and brought me an extra distance into the park beyond the ticket gate after purchase. He even offered me a "bargain" return fare if I was ready to depart when he arrived with his next fare at 11:30 that morning. There was little chance that I would be in and out that quick, knowing that some extra exploration was my appetite for the day. With the language trouble, it was hard to deliver my point that I was up for more than the 2 Km boardwalk that meandered around the park. He assured me that the only other trail was an easy 5 Km walk down stream to the next historical town. That would not satisfy me, but I thanked him anyways and showed him appreciation for his extra helpfulness.
I had only slightly beaten 5 of the 6 tourist buses that were queued up to enter the park that morning. I used the chance to slowly view some of Krka (pronounced kreeca)National Park and the longest and most widely visited falls of Skradinski Buk. At a half dozen outlooks over the different levels of the falls, I was among only a handfull of viewers gazing down into the emerald water cascading endlessly downriver to the Adriatic. A small taverna among the other historically reproduced buildings at the site of the old mill house. Picnic tables were arranged on one overlook and I took the table at the edge of the veranda which actually hung out over the river to enjoy my coffee. The park was slowly filling, but I still wasn't hurrying to cross the river and begin searching for a trail, any trail. The park's design had been carefully considered, and each place that the stone and wooden bridges crossed the areas of flowing water requested an extra moments pause to admire the sight.
Two main reasons existed for my choice to travel alone that day, and are similar to other days where I choose to not have company. Firstly I didn't want to wait for anybody. Most times I don't mind waiting, I realize I probably am often the one that is being waited on, but not this day. The second reason applies to the first one, I didn't want to feel rushed. I was planning on taking a time out in the woods, staying still for some time to absorb what was, and wasn't happening around me. I was resistant to the idea that somebody, especially a good friend, along with me would be there and potentially detracting from the experience in those moments. At the outset of my employment aboard, I did explain that occasionally I would need time apart from the group. I think my crew mates remember and understand the statements that I've made regarding my independence and don't chalk it up to ill temper or any other falsities. It is a sensitive balance we strive for here, living at work is occasionally difficult.
The mist from the falls is illuminating in the morning sunshine. Rainbows are forming in the blowing water vapor, they shimmer, glisten, and drift overhead. Across the bridge, the paths lead deeper into the opposite side of the main falls. Diverging from that trail network is a gravel road, a narrow one lane road. I was guessing that by following what the map called this bike trail upriver I may see a more primitive hiking trail leading up the ridge. Only about a kilometer up the lane, I found this path that lead up the steep hillside, mostly on scree tracks that mingle with dense brush and small evergreen trees. The density of the trees on this trail gave the impression that it was not currently popular, but that it may once have been more heavily traveled. Gaining some elevation quickly lead to excellent views of the snaking Krka River, the canyons walls at this fork were wide, and gave room for some grassy flats and the sparsely spaced row of skinny, tall evergreen trees. Water fowl evidently loved this landscape, even from my distance I could see several ducks and a crane.
The scree slope grew steeper and the trail made longer switchbacks. On the other side of the ridge, my ears were sheltered from the roar of the falls, only perceptible now was the chirp of the grasshoppers. Below me was still the rivers calm and wide section. Across the water were the other hillsides of the canyon walls. Cairns marked the trail where the landscape was more open and the trail less discernible from the many scree tracks. These cairns were small, most of them would have fit on a frisbee and none were taller than a foot, save one cairn that was about three times larger than all of it's friends. The scree was very consistently fist sized or smaller, and it's angular shape made for easy footing. The shoulder leveled out into a ridge, and revealed the first view at altitude of the falls below. Regrettably , I could also view from that vantage the old hydroelectric dam building and machinery. Additionally, two abandoned buildings slumped atop the adjacent ridge, far across the Krka and canyon from my position.
I took a seat among the warm rocks, pulled my camera and notebook from my pack, and resolved to have a rest and enjoy the view upriver towards the fork. This was the best viewpoint and best direction lending that it was the one that included the least man made junk, not to mention it was facing ESE, making it ideal for catching some mountain sun. The rocks were almost comfortable, I took my shirt and shoes off and reclined back against my pack, feeling the warm rays radiating down on me. So much time spent at sea level had me craving some time spent higher up, I was reveling in the peace and open space below me, and devoured a snack along with my surroundings. I attempted to photograph a spider in it's web, busy wrapping up a fresh caught fly. My efforts weren't in vain, my simple camera wouldn't focus on the small spider, but was instead focusing on the leaves behind it. A praying mantis was hunting next to where I laid out, and was an easier subject due to its background. Despite my patience and effort in getting photos and video of it attacking and eating another insect, I was only able to photograph it walking around atop the rocks. I headed back down to river level after about an hour on top the ridge, I wanted to use the the rest of my day next to the flowing water.
Next to the river below the falls, I found a nice tree to lean back against, got my book out, and read in the sunshine. At this time I realized that swimming was allowed at this lower point in the river. Signs prohibiting swimming, camping, fires, fishing, and leaving the trail were placed along the trails prior to that level. The river was cold, but not cold enough to force me to get out immediately. The water was great, the river bottom and sides were solid rock covered with a thin layer of mossy growth and mineral sediment. The rocks were slightly slippery, but comfortable to walk on. The depth went from well overhead to a few inches and back to deep again. I would swim to a rock to stand up on and warm up in the sun. I was getting cold rapidly, and so made a strong swim under the wooden bridge and up to the rope barrier that closed off the bottom of the falls for swimming. I put my feet up and rode down stream in the current on the way back downriver. Shivering, I laid back at my tree and read, warming up in the sunshine. Did I mention getting the beers from the beer garden? They were so good and cold. Excellent day at a national park in Croatia.
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